He took it to a shop and they said there were metal fragments in the gear oil. He was driving on the freeway and the car started vibrating. The reason for the $2000 price tag was the transmission.
How to Replace the Turbo on a 2008 Ford F250 6.4 D.When I was looking in the classifieds for a car with AWD and a manual transmission, I saw a 1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD available for $2000. DIY Project Phases - Excitement, Drudgery, then Vi. When That 20 Minute Repair Takes Four Hours. Here's my first setup for pressing out the control linkage for the variable vanes. The punch started to bend, so I replaced that with a 5 mm deep socket and tried again. I had to use my press to separate the variable vane control from the turbo. A shop crane with a longer reach would have been nice.ġ2. The turbo assembly, suspended from a shop crane. I took the turbo out by moving it towards the driver's side, with a shop crane lifting it. Good luck.Įngine compartment after removing all that stuff Have fun getting those exhaust bolts off. There are two threaded holes for the bolts, and two holes for the pins. The heat from the turbo cooks it and then it starts leaking. Be sure to replace that o-ring on the high side turbo's oil return. You can see the two oil return passages for the low and high side turbos. Here's a shot of the bottom side, looking from the back side after I removed it.īottom side of the turbo assembly, with the low side turbo on the right If you lift front and back at the same, straight up, you may be able to get it off easier than I did. Removing the front mounting bolt for the turbo assembly Don't remove the 10mm nut holding the high side turbo's oil return line down. Remove the two main bolts holding the turbo assembly to the engine. It holds the pipe in place while you clamp it. Then remove the exhaust pipe from the back of the low side turbo. You need to be able to put a wrench on the end of the ratchet handle, so the Craftsman 44815 works pretty well here. You'll need to get creative with your flex head ratchet. Remove the six bolts holding the two exhaust pipes on the back side of the turbo assembly. Do not use a 12 point socket on any of the exhaust bolts. For all the 10mm bolts on the exhaust, use a six point socket. Try a 6 point 10mm shallow socket on a 6" wobbly extension attached to a U joint, attached to a long extension to your ratchet handle. There's a mounting bolt in the middle of the pipe. You need this pipe out of the way to get at the six bolts holding the exhaust inlet pipes on the back of the turbo assembly. This won't have enough room to come out, but you can move it around to access the other bolts you need to get to. Disconnect the exhaust pipe between the EGR cooler and the back of the turbos (7 bolts).
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